Liz On Food

Peach Jam Pecan Bars

Regardless of when Colorado peaches are in harvest, we enjoy their delectable goodness year-round by freezing pie filling and making peach jam. I spiced this year's batch of peach jam with cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. And that's the impetus for this crunchy, crumbly sweetheart of a bar cookie recipe I whipped up. The following version calls for peach jam with the spices as separate ingredients (because I'm assuming you may not find a ready supply of spiced peach jam).

Yield: 30 bar cookies

Preparation Time: 45 minutes

3/4 c butter
1 c brown sugar
1 c flour
1/2 t salt
1/2 c whole wheat flour
1 c old-fashioned or steel-cut oats
1 t cinnamon
1/4 t cloves
1/4 t nutmeg
1/2 t baking soda
8 oz peach jam
3/4 c chopped pecans

Preheat oven to 400^o. In mixer, beat butter and sugar until light. Add dry ingredients, mix until crumbly.

Place half of mixture in 9x13 baking pan, press to fill bottom of pan. 

Spread with peach jam.

Sprinkle half of chopped pecans over jam.

Gently spread remaining crumb mixture in the pan. Top with rest of chopped pecans.

Bake for 20-25 minutes until edges just turn golden. Let cool before slicing.

Per-serving Nutritional Profile:
    Calories, 140
    Fat, 7 g
        Saturated Fat, 3 g
    Cholesterol, 10 mg
    Carbs, 19 g
        Dietary Fiber, 1 g
    Protein, 1 g
    Sodium, 65  mg
    Vitamin A, 2% Daily Value
    Vitamin C, 0% Daily Value
    Calcium, 2% Daily Value
    Iron, 4% Daily Value

Fun breakfast treats, these peach jam pecan bars go nicely with coffee and tea, in addition to milk.

No Singing at the Supper Table

I grew up in a relatively large family: My parents had five kids within a span of a little over seven years. If Mom and Dad hadn't set forth some pretty clear kitchen rules, we "spirited" children might have caused dinners to disintegrate into food riots. Family meals were near sacred in my family, and memories of those early dining experiences with my parents and siblings figure prominently in my passion for food. So when the Associated Press and i-Village recently announced the results of their poll on the family dinner, I was quickly reminded of how my childhood home dining experience compares to today's family sups.

The good news, according to the survey, is that the family meal continues to endure: More more than 60 percent of "those who live with families said they sat down with family for dinner at least five nights a week." And home-cooked meals with hand-me-down recipes were the norm, rather than ready-to-eat foods, such as take-out. So far, so good.

However, AP and iVillage found that "the modern dinner comes with a heaping helping of distracting bells and whistles," such as phones ringing and cell phone texting as well as TVs and stereos blaring. More than a quarter of families reported that television was on constantly during dinner. OK, rewind to my childhood....we had one TV, on purpose. It was in the family room, downstairs from the kitchen. We knew of families that had TVs in bedrooms and kitchens – oh, the horror of it. We didn't watch TV during meals, except for very rare special treats when we got to break out the TV trays for a special airing of the Wizard of Oz, Sound of Music or the like (no cable TV, TiVo, nor video/DVD players yet).

The survey indicated half of households are pestered by phone calls during dinner. And five percent of families said texting or e-mailing on a cell phone is always going on over dinner. Back in the day....no caller IDs, no cordless telephones, no answering machines, no cell phones. It didn't matter that you didn't know who was calling and that they couldn't leave a message. No one was going to answer the phone during dinner. If the caller had something to say, he/she could call back. And by the way, he/she should know better than to call during the dinner hour. As an aside, our one corded telephone was in the kitchen, which meant there was no such thing as a private conversation, which I think Mom felt was a matter of personal safety for us when we were teens. Who knew what might happen if we girls could actually talk to a boyfriend in private? That's a far cry from our current household, in which everyone has a smartphone.

My mother is a home economist who attended finishing school before moving on to the university to obtain bachelor's and master's degrees. So we may have had more than our fair share of emphasis on table etiquette. We each had our seats we returned to every evening around the big rectangular butcher block table. We weren't always perfect, but a few basic table manners were instilled along the way:

• Always say please when asking for something - May (not can) I please have the potatoes?
• Pass the food counter-clockwise from left to right, and for goodness sake, no "boarding-house reach" across the table. The left-to-right rotation makes sense for right-handed diners, who tend to hold the serving dish with the left hand and scoop with the right.
• If you're in-between the asker and passers, don't snag. Ask permission first - Do you mind if I take a bit first?
• If someone asks for salt or pepper, pass them both together so the shakers don't get separated on the table.
• When the host or hostess picks up the fork you may start eating. If at a banquet or restaurant, wait until everyone at your table is served, unless an empty-plated person insists. If you're an empty-plated person, give permission for the rest of the table to begin eating.
• Keep your elbows off the table. Evidently, two reasons exist for this somewhat arcane rule: 1) you might crowd your adjacent diners, and 2) you increase the chance of the table cloth and dishes going askew.
• Don't talk with your mouth full. Chew with your mouth closed.

Can you hear your mother's voice?

Back to the survey. Nearly 40 percent reported having the radio or stereo going, at least occasionally. Being an audiophile, I don't have a bone to pick with that trend, provided the sound is tasteful background music, rather than talk radio or a sporting event. I grew up in a musical family. Each of us learned to play at least one musical instrument, and most of us performed on stage in high school, either in theater, choirs or in instrumental ensembles. It seemed we were always singing at home. In fact, we developed a routine of spontaneously breaking into song at the slightest suggestion, even at times that might be considered inappropriate by the elders. So Mom and Dad had to instill one more rule: No singing at the dinner table. I have to admit that one did not stick. And I have, literally, sung for my supper on more than one occasion. Nowadays in our home, singing at the table is A-OK, but...texting is not. On the other hand, if you want to play your iPhone ocarina application at dinner, I might consider that suitable.

"Natural" Labeling Claims

Natural potato chips, natural chicken, natural granola, natural beef, natural milk, natural yogurt... plenty of foods are marketed as natural. So what's behind the claim, asks one of my stepdaughter's friends. Well, I suppose that depends on the food, ingredient and agency.

I've heard plenty of folks state categorically that natural doesn't mean a thing because the term isn't regulated. That's not quite the case, but regulatory aspects of the term are, to say the least, a little fuzzy. Add to that the complications of a competitive marketplace, with the organic arena weighing in that the "natural" moniker has little meaning and with other commercial interests trying to tighten the reins on what's allowed under the claim of "natural." Marketplace developments (new products, boycotts, changing consumer preferences, etc.) as well as legal activity, including regulatory action (or lack of action) and lawsuits, have put the natural labeling issue in the press off and on for the past two years.

At the federal level in the United States, the regulations and enforcement for use of the term "natural" are split between two agencies: the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) within the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services and the Food Safety Inspection Service (FSIS) under the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

FDA - A Look at "Natural" and High-Fructose Corn Syrup

The FDA has not formally defined the term “natural," but does regulate use of the term as opposed to terms “synthetic” or “artificial" as they specifically apply to flavoring and coloring agents. In 1993,the FDA offered informal policy indicating that “natural” means “nothing artificial or synthetic has been included in, or has been added to, a food that would not normally be expected to be in the food."

In a case of marketplace competition, the Sugar Association has taken the Corn Refiners Association to task over use of the term "natural" with high-fructose corn syrup. In July 2008, the FDA sent a letter to the Corn Refiners Association indicating that the agency would not object to use of the term "natural" being on a product containing high-fructose corn syrup produced by a process the Corn Refiners Association refers to as "commonly employed in the corn refining industry." In the letter, the FDA indicated its long-standing policy on use of the term "natural" for ingredients was on a case-by-case basis.

In 2007, a woman, Stacy Hulk, filed a class action lawsuit in New Jersey against Snapple. The case alleged that Snapple violated the New Jersey Consumer Fraud Act by labeling its product "All Natural," though it contained high-fructose corn syrup. In September 2009, the 3rd Circuit Court of Appeals reversed an earlier lower federal court ruling, indicating the FDA labeling regulations did not pre-empt state law. Snapple revised its formula in late 2008, replacing high fructose corn syrup with sugar.

Organic Versus Natural

Certified organic products, regulated through the USDA's National Organic Program, continue to sell well. However, a nationally representative survey published in June by the Shelton Group found that  Americans chose "natural" over "organic" when asked, "Which is the best product description to read on a label?"

• "100% natural" -- 31 percent
• "All natural ingredients" -- 25 percent
• "100% organic" -- 14 percent
• "Certified organic ingredients" -- 12 percent

That point, as well as lower costs of non-organic ingredients, hasn't been lost on Dean Foods, which owns White Wave and Horizon. White Wave recently replaced organic soy beans with natural soy beans in all but three of its Silk Soymilk products. Natural Foods Merchandiser reported in July that Horizon introduced two new product lines, Little Blends, a yogurt for toddlers, and Milk Breakers, single servings of milk, both of which are marketed as "natural" but not certified organic. That has raised the ire of some organic consumer activists, including the Organic Consumers Association, which has called for a boycott of both White Wave and Horizon.

USDA - Regulations Currently Under Review

USDA FSIS does regulate use of the term "natural" as it applies to meat and poultry. Meat and poultry labeled as natural must be free of artificial colors, flavors, sweeteners, preservatives and ingredients that do not occur naturally in the food. On September 14, 2009, the USDA announced that it would solicit further public comment regarding the voluntary claim "natural" to be used in the labeling of meat and poultry products.The USDA current definition is outlined in the Food Standards and Labeling Policy Book:

The term “natural” may be used on labeling for meat products and poultry products, provided the applicant for such labeling demonstrates that:

(1) the product does not contain any artificial flavor or flavoring, coloring ingredient, or chemical preservative (as defined in 21 CFR 101.22), or any other artificial or synthetic ingredient; and (2) the product and its ingredients are not more than minimally processed. Minimal processing may include: (a) those traditional processes used to make food edible or to preserve it or to make it safe for human consumption, e.g., smoking, roasting, freezing, drying, and fermenting, or (b) those physical processes which do not fundamentally alter the raw product and/or which only separate a whole, intact food into component parts, e.g., grinding meat, separating eggs into albumen and yolk, and pressing fruits to produce juices.

Since 2006, FSIS has received a couple of petitions requesting action with regard to "natural"claims. The FSIS has reported the receipt of numerous comments expressing:

Divergent views on what the claim "natural'' as applied to meat and poultry products should mean and, in general, focused on particular ingredients, processing methods, and animal production practices that individual commenters felt should or should not be permitted for meat or poultry products labeled as "natural"...

The comments indicate that there is an overall lack of consensus on both the general or common understanding of what the claim "natural'' means to the industry and to the public and on the approach that FSIS should take to address issues associated with the use of "natural'' claims on the labels of meat and poultry products. Nonetheless, FSIS has concluded that a further solicitation of comments could produce information that would help to clarify and resolve the issues surrounding the "natural'' claim.

To improve the focus of public input, FSIS has requested comments on several issues:

• The Need for Rulemaking
• Sodium Lactate and Other "Multi-Functional'' Ingredients and Food Safety
• Separate Claims for "Natural'' Products and "Natural Ingredients"
• "Non-Traditional'' Food Processing Methods
• "Enhanced'' Products
• "Natural'' and Animal Production Conditions
• Establish a Uniform Federal Definition of "Natural''
• Carbon Monoxide

Comments to the FSIS are due Friday, November 13, 2009. Stay tuned, we're bound to see some changes with federal labeling regulations related to the term "natural."

Chile Verde Sauce

Chile Verde Sauce adds a kick to just about any soup or stew. By making a large batch, which can be frozen as cubes, you'll have a ready supply for winter cooking. Be sure to use rubber gloves when handling cooked peppers.

Serves: Enough for 6-8 soup or stew recipes.

 Preparation Time: 3 hours, including simmering time.

1 T vegetable oil
2 lbs poblano chiles
4 cloves garlic
2 c water

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Wash chiles. Brush two baking sheets with vegetable oil. Arrange peppers on baking sheets. Bake until skins start to bubble and turn brown. Remove from oven. Place chiles in large bowl, cover and let sit 15-20 minutes. Wearing rubber gloves, peel skins from peppers.

Slice open and remove stem and seeds. If you like really spicy chile verde, leave some seeds as they contribute to hotness. Dice chiles.

Dice garlic. Put chiles and garlic in saucepot. Add water to cover (about 2 cups). Simmer on low for 2-3 hours until chiles are soft and can be mashed.

Use potato masher to mash chiles. Let mixture cool to room temperature. Fill ice cube trays. Freeze until solid. Pop cubes into freezer containers or plastic freezer bags; freeze for later use.

Say, with all the debate about the safety of BPA (Bisphenol A) in plastic containers, you might be wondering about ice cube trays. BPA is a plasticizer used to make plastic hard. Therefore, it's not ideal for ice cube trays, which require flexibility to allow the user to pop out cubes. Rubbermaid plastic ice cube trays do not contain BPA. Nonetheless, you'll find plenty of marketers willing to promote silicon and stainless steel trays as BPA-free, implying plastic trays contain BPA.

E coli in organic, natural and conventional cattle

Sipping a brown ale, I stared at my pink burger while dining at a Boulder. Yes, the burger that was supposed to be cooked to medium doneness. I was surprised that the waiter asked how I wanted my burger cooked. I had hoped by now that rare and medium-rare burgers were off limits in dining establishments. I gingerly picked around the rare parts, considering whether I should ask for a new burger, cooked crispy charred. But we were running late for my stepson's high school play. No time for trepidation, be brave, I told myself. Nonetheless, sitting in downtown Boulder, the bastion of organic and natural foods, I couldn't help but think of a recent study about E. coli and matters fecal in cows of every persuasion: organic, natural and conventional.

In a study published in the August 2009 issue of Applied and Environmental Microbiology, researchers at Kansas State University demonstrated the prevalence of E. coli O157:H7 in the feces of organically and naturally raised beef cattle to be similar to that of conventionally produced cattle in prior studies.

These findings suggest that when compared to conventionally raised beef cattle, organic and natural production systems don't affect antibiotic susceptibility of E. coli O157:H7. Although organic and natural beef are popular for their suggested health benefits, little is actually known about possible differences in food-borne pathogens associated with organic and natural versus conventional production methods.

Considering the ongoing reports of E. coli-contaminated ground beef, I am mindful food safety risks exist with ground beef, whether organic, natural or conventional. Cooking all types of ground beef thoroughly should be de rigueur. As I write this 12 hours after dinner, I'm still feeling fine. (However, illness from pathogenic E. coli typically sets in three days after ingestion.) But I'm not sure the restaurant will see me again any time soon.

Update November 12, 2009: Earlier this week the FDA released the 2009 Food Code, "a model code and reference document that provides a scientifically sound technical and legal basis for regulating the retail and food service segment of the food industry." At least one revision to the code is related to the subject at hand:

Serving hamburgers and other ground meats in an undercooked form upon a consumer’s request is no longer an option for items offered on a children’s menu.

(Source FDA press release November, 9, 20009, FDA Issues 2009 Food Code.)

The code applies to conventionally, organically or naturally produced ground meats. Yesterday evening, at another restaurant in Boulder I was, once again, asked by waitstaff how I wanted my burger cooked. Maybe I need to start ordering from the children's menu.