Liz On Food

The Lone Strawberry

For the past three years, I have been building a fortress around my kitchen garden to keep various wild critters at bay. I put up chicken wire as soon as sprouts appear. I place bird netting over the strawberry bed as the buds drop off and the green fruit forms. This year, I added bobbing crane decoys.

Still the strawberries have disappeared. One morning I came out to find a rabbit under the bird netting. Because I had the dog in tow, I let the rabbit be and took the dog inside. When I returned, the rabbit had pulled the netting open and hopped over the chicken wire to freedom. Hmm, not exactly the effect I have been hoping for. So far, the harvest has been slim this year: one lone strawberry.

All along I have been blaming rabbits. But I'm now thinking it's the squirrels. They race back and forth on the fence row, scampering from one tree to another, and I'm guessing, with an occasional detour into the garden to help themselves to strawberries. They love the apples, why not strawberries?

For now, I've now decided the strawberries are the squirrels' domain. I don't relish the thought of squirrel saliva on my morning berries. Some things are better left to nature.

Soil and Fruit Quality Differs in Organic versus Conventional Strawberry Growing Systems

Studying different agricultural growing systems to learn the impact of various methods on the harvested food as well as the soil and other aspects of biodiversity is at best difficult. When looking at the end product (the fruit, vegetable, grain, meat, etc, intended for consumption) attributes that have been studied include nutrient content (vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals), pesticide residues, microbial pathogens and sensory properties, such as flavor, texture and appearance. Other research explores environmental impact at the farm and beyond. No wonder it's hard to sift through the news reports to make informed choices about whether or when it matters to buy organic products.

One approach consumers take is to lean toward buying organic, regardless of the debate, "just to be on the safe side." And that might be an easy decision if organic and conventional products are at price parity. That's some times the case, but more often than not, organic foods are more expensive than their conventional counterparts. Regardless of whether the rationales for purchasing organic are completely backed by science, sales of organic foods continue to climb, showing consumer preference. Top reasons for purchasing organic are health, taste and environmental impact. Because of rising popularity and the complexity of studying agricultural production systems, it's important that we continue to pay attention to new research on the impact of various production methods on nutrition, food safety and the environment. It's also key to try to consider the broader context of the research, thinking through questions like, "Is this the only study that makes this demonstration or are there several?" and "Would this study likely apply to other geographic areas?"

A review study published in 2009 that was aimed at just the nutritional profiles of organic versus conventional foods showed little difference between the two. However, critics have argued the study did not look at some nutritional attributes, such as certain antioxidants for which differences have been shown. Other published studies have looked at pesticide residues with conventional versus organic and have shown that while organic produce still does contain some pesticides, the levels are lower than  found in conventional. However, the pesticide levels are usually well within the range considered safe. Some produce is more likely to contain pesticide residues than others. Earlier this year, the Environmental Working Group published the 2010 Shoppers Guide and once again conventional strawberries are near the top of the "Dirty Dozen" list, a ranking of fruits and vegetables with the highest levels and numbers of pesticide residues. A self-published analysis (that is, not subjected to more rigorous peer-review process), the ranking none the less gives consumers easy-to-use information about "cleanest" and dirtiest" produce related to pesticides.

A peer-review study was published online at PLos ONE September 1, detailing the work of University of Washington researchers who compared 15 pairs of conventional and organic strawberry growing systems in California.The scientists examined three strawberry varieties, took several samples over a two-year period and looked at mineral content, shelf life, phytochemical composition, and sensory properties of strawberries. They also analyzed solid properties. Here's what they found:

• "The organic farms had strawberries with longer shelf life, greater dry matter, and higher antioxidant activity and concentrations of ascorbic acid and phenolic compounds, but lower concentrations of phosphorus and potassium."
• One variety of organic strawberries was judged to "be sweeter and have better flavor, overall acceptance, and appearance" than its conventional counterpart, according to a sensory panel.
• The organically farmed soils had "more total carbon and nitrogen, greater microbial biomass and activity, and higher concentrations of micronutrients. Organically farmed soils also exhibited greater numbers of endemic genes and greater functional gene abundance and diversity for several biogeochemical processes, such as nitrogen fixation and pesticide degradation."

So this study shows that organic strawberry farms "produced higher quality fruit and that their higher quality soils may have greater microbial functional capability and resilience to stress."

California is the number-one state for strawberries, with farm sales "of almost $37 billion in 2007, almost double the $19 billion (each) of number two Texas and number three Iowa." According to the California Strawberry Commission, strawberries make up over 5% of produce sales and are ranked one or two (seasonal variation) in retail fresh fruit sales in the United States. So this newly published University of Washington research is of significance.

Photo Credits: Fotolia.com

Backyard Garden Early Season

This year, I purchased Abbondanza's locally cultivated seeds for my backyard garden. You can find the dirt (pardon the pun) on the whys and wherefores of this investment in this post: Can I Make My Back Yard Garden More Local? I am excited to see what my locally purchased seeds will do in my garden compared to longer-distance seed sources in years' past. I will be updating my blog throughout the growing season so you'll have a chance to check out the progress as well.

While early June may seem like mid-season in those in more temperate climates, it's early season here on the Colorado front range, especially considering we had snow mid-May this year. So far, I have healthy seedlings signally a solid harvest to come, in large part due to the seeds, but also because of rabbit fencing, compost and irrigation.

One row of green and wax bean seeds were eaten by blackbirds, so I replanted those a few days ago. Oddly enough, the birds discovered only one of my two rows originally planted so a have a line of nicely progressing plants. And those pesky birds may have actually done me a favor, as now my bean harvest will be spread out over several weeks.

I planted several varieties of leaf lettuce. Sprinkling the seeds together in a row will result in a blend of greens later in the season. The charcoal-colored tubing is soaker hose we installed last year. The timed drip system allows for water conservation, ideal in arid areas such as Colorado where gardens required irrigation.

Here's how zucchini and yellow summer squash look when they pop up. It will be a few weeks before fried squash blossoms are on our home menu.


Carrots always seem to take a while to get started. These little Nantes Scarlet seedlings are so small, I had trouble focusing the camera! This is the same cultivar that produced Carrot Love last season. Notice the cottonwood fluff that has settled in the garden.


Turnips are one of my favorite vegetables, especially when harvested as young, tender, small globes. You can see some bugs have been enjoying the leaves, but not to the extent that it will deter the growth of the plants.

Our beet seedlings are coming along. These could have been planted sooner but it was tough to get motivated when it was still snowing in April and May! No worries, we'll have luscious beets in no time. Well, not quite no time. With a growing time of 45-65 days, we should have beets by mid-July. I'll get back to you on that.


I've limited this particular season preview of my garden to seeds purchased from Abbondanza. Within the last week, herbs, eggplant and tomato plants from local green houses and farmers' markets have thickened the plot (pardon another pun). Stay tuned for the next episode.

Can I Make My Backyard Vegetable Garden More Local?

In locavore terms, what could be more local than growing your own food in your back yard? Long before Michael Pollan and Alice Waters espoused the virtues of locally produced foods, I was growing various fruits and vegetables. I picked up the habit from my parents who grew backyard vegetables and fruit when we were growing up and still do today. OK, I fess up, true confession: As a kid, I was a bit of a whiner (well,more than a bit) hoeing weeds in our Midwest community garden plot on hot, humid summer days. Kvetchin' or not, I hold a gardening tenure (as do the 'rents') that makes me quite the trend setter growing edibles. Actually, I don't think backyard vegetable gardens are news for most folks with rural roots (no pun intended). Those lovin' the country life have just been waiting for the suburban and urban creatures to catch on...and we're happy you have!

With a food and nutrition science background, I was destined to approach my backyard garden as a scientific experiment, learning best practices, estimating cost savings and studying methods for reducing inputs.

I have learned through 20+ years of trial and tribulation, as well as through good old Colorado Cooperative Extension, to adapt my Midwest-based gardening skills to Colorado's cantankerous climate with its limited moisture and short growing season. Last year, I focused on water conversation through drip irrigation and improved tomato yield through plastic mulching with a good degree of success. I'll be implementing those techniques again this year.

This year, my seasonal experiment will include überlocalizing by planting Boulder County cultivated vegetable seeds from Abbodanza Organic Seeds and Produce, Longmont, Colorado.

Abbondanza's collection "has been hand crafted, gathered and cared for and includes varieties collected over the last 18 years." Through its efforts, Abbondanza has adopted many common vegetable, herb, and flower varieties to the Rocky Mountain region. Last season, I picked up some Abbondanza nantes carrot seeds at the Boulder farmers' market and grew some fabulous carrots. 

I got to know one of the Abbodanza co-owners through serving on the Boulder County Food and Ag Policy Council, so I can tell you these are dedicated local growers. Abbodanza not only sells seeds but also sells produce at Boulder County farmers markets as well as Community Supported Agriculture shares.

Although I'm merely a sometime purchaser of organic fruits and vegetables, my backyard edible garden is an adventure in organic gardening techniques. We compost yard and kitchen waste, which augments the garden soil. That's supplemented with purchased organic compost. I don't use pesticides on the garden (synthetic or otherwise). I have learned over the years which vegetables tend to attract bugs and I just don't bother to grow them anymore (brussel sprouts, for example). One nice thing about our arid climate: It cuts down on unwanted garden bugs and microbes. Abbondanza seeds are produced with organic growing practices, so that fits my organic experiment. In addition to last year's carrots, I have planted other organic seeds in the past and have always been happy with the results.

Abbondanza seeds are available throughout Boulder County but you can also purchase them by contacting Abbondanza directly. That's how I obtained my seeds. I poured over the list, made my selections and sent an email. I soon received a cheerful email reply and my seeds showed up a few days later with an invoice, which I promptly forgot to pull out of the envelope until a couple weeks later. I then scurried to send a check. Oops, my bad...sorry, Abbondanza!


Here are my selections:

• Shiraz Beets
• Indy Gold Snap Beans
• Purple Top White Turnips
• Gold Rush Lettuce
• Red Rapids Lettuce
• Scarlet Nantes Carrots
• True Gold Zucchini
• Caserta Zucchini
• Garden Dill
• Marketmore 76 Cucumbers
• Green Oak Leaf Lettuce
• Lolla Rosa Lettuce
• Jade Snap Beans

I'll post progress of my Abbondanza crops throughout the season. I've been clearing the garden bed and shoring up the drip hoses, so I'll be planting shortly. Now, if it would just stop snowing.

E coli in organic, natural and conventional cattle

Sipping a brown ale, I stared at my pink burger while dining at a Boulder. Yes, the burger that was supposed to be cooked to medium doneness. I was surprised that the waiter asked how I wanted my burger cooked. I had hoped by now that rare and medium-rare burgers were off limits in dining establishments. I gingerly picked around the rare parts, considering whether I should ask for a new burger, cooked crispy charred. But we were running late for my stepson's high school play. No time for trepidation, be brave, I told myself. Nonetheless, sitting in downtown Boulder, the bastion of organic and natural foods, I couldn't help but think of a recent study about E. coli and matters fecal in cows of every persuasion: organic, natural and conventional.

In a study published in the August 2009 issue of Applied and Environmental Microbiology, researchers at Kansas State University demonstrated the prevalence of E. coli O157:H7 in the feces of organically and naturally raised beef cattle to be similar to that of conventionally produced cattle in prior studies.

These findings suggest that when compared to conventionally raised beef cattle, organic and natural production systems don't affect antibiotic susceptibility of E. coli O157:H7. Although organic and natural beef are popular for their suggested health benefits, little is actually known about possible differences in food-borne pathogens associated with organic and natural versus conventional production methods.

Considering the ongoing reports of E. coli-contaminated ground beef, I am mindful food safety risks exist with ground beef, whether organic, natural or conventional. Cooking all types of ground beef thoroughly should be de rigueur. As I write this 12 hours after dinner, I'm still feeling fine. (However, illness from pathogenic E. coli typically sets in three days after ingestion.) But I'm not sure the restaurant will see me again any time soon.

Update November 12, 2009: Earlier this week the FDA released the 2009 Food Code, "a model code and reference document that provides a scientifically sound technical and legal basis for regulating the retail and food service segment of the food industry." At least one revision to the code is related to the subject at hand:

Serving hamburgers and other ground meats in an undercooked form upon a consumer’s request is no longer an option for items offered on a children’s menu.

(Source FDA press release November, 9, 20009, FDA Issues 2009 Food Code.)

The code applies to conventionally, organically or naturally produced ground meats. Yesterday evening, at another restaurant in Boulder I was, once again, asked by waitstaff how I wanted my burger cooked. Maybe I need to start ordering from the children's menu.